Updating a new englander
Ted’s Restaurant, Meriden, Connecticut: No, this isn’t the latest diet-food craze.
Central Connecticut denizens have been craving these patties for decades, in large part due to the steaming process in a stainless steel cabinet, which yields a lighter-textured burger and lavalike cheddar.
Whenever Row 34 chef Jeremy Sewall has a craving, he reaches for his Ethel’s Creamy Lobster Roll, just like his Mainer grandmother used to make.
Union Oyster House On the menu since at least 1850, this version is made according to the classic recipe: Ingredients including salt pork, chopped clams, and half-and-half are simmered to create a thick soup so white it almost glows. Moxy Chef Matt Louis’s deconstructed, build-your-own-style New England dinner lays out Napa cabbage leaves for wrapping, plus house-brined beef brisket and accoutrements such as pickled carrots to go inside.
Aunt Carrie’s, Narragansett, Rhode Island: Chowder meets its dreamboat match on the shores of Rhode Island, where quahog-studded fritters are traditionally dunked into Styrofoam cups of red, white, or clear broth.
Hint: The almost-burnt crunchy bits are the best part of this just-out-of-the-fryer delicacy.
At this family-run sugarhouse, the frozen treat gets its robust flavor from a heavy pour of dark syrup mixed into a vanilla base.
Vermont Shepherd, Putney: Head here for highly regarded sheep’s-milk cheeses, aged on wooden boards for several months in a European-style cave (pictured above).
His mastery of venison cookery dates back to his apprentice days in Paris, and remains helpful when local friends ask him about the best way to prepare this native game meat.
Labadie’s Bakery, Lewiston, Maine: While its origins remain unclear—was it invented in the Pine Tree State, Pennsylvania, or elsewhere?
—Mainers have officially claimed this dessert as their own.
The hamburger bun is really there to help mop up the rich brown gravy that’s ladled atop a pile of crispy noodles, fried at Fall River’s Oriental Chow Mein Company and available only in the city and its environs.
Puritan Backroom Restaurant, Manchester, New Hampshire: Campaigning politicians regularly stop by this restaurant—and so should you—for Manchester’s signature chicken dish: battered whole pieces of marinated tenderloin, deep-fried until golden and served with sweet-sour duck sauce.